Max meets us at the apartment where he is about 25 lbs thinner after his bout with salmonella typhus and after oohs and aahs at our amazingly grown, self-reliant young men abroad in the world we head off to eat Yakitori BBQ in Akasaka with the occasional Santa suit passing by. It’s cold; I am wearing all 5 items I brought for cold weather and realize I will be wearing them non-stop for the next 10 days. I am totally reliant on my kid as I can’t read a thing, and we kvell silently at watching him order food and chat back and forth with the waitress who looks like she’s dressed for battle (all black). The food is delicious – although I suspect it would be called tapas anywhere else — and costs a small fortune, which we have trouble calculating. 150,000 Yen? Almost $200? We stop at a 7-11 type food store and buy perfect tangerines and cream that is probably intended for pastry and I say ‘arigato” to everyone I pass while nodding and grinning like a fool, but it feels right. I can’t remember the next part but I think we crashed.